Review: Unique Tofu in Arashiyama
A critical look at a meal unlike anything else in Kyoto. Does the clever use of soba in the tofu at this interesting restaurant pay off?
Arashiyama is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Kyoto, meaning there are also a ton of places to eat lunch in the area. From street food to classy Kobe beef, the options are plentiful. There is a wonderful restaurant along the riverside in Arashiyama that is the perfect spot to try something a little different than the other tofu in Kyoto.
Tofu Matsugae is dwarfed in popularity by its neighbor, the well-known Yoshimura soba noodle restaurant. On days when the line is too long for noodles, a meal at Matsugae is just as enjoyable. There's even some culinary crossover, as soba (buckwheat) is used in creative ways at Matsugae, and you can order a side dish of the same noodles that everyone else is waiting for next door.
The first thing you notice inside Matsugae is the traditional atmosphere, complete with tatami floors, low ceilings, and walls paneled with natural materials. The understated atmosphere in the main dining room feels like stepping into a high-end traditional dining space. If you're lucky enough to get a view of the garden while you dine, you're in for a real treat. It really is a top notch landscape and offers just the right amount of detail and design for its relatively small size. Even on a rainy, misty day, and the wetness of the moss and the raindrops clinging to the pine needles makes for an enchanting view. Unfortunately, there are only two tables in the room that get an unobstructed view of this magnificent landscape, so get there when they open and hope they're not reserved.
The menu at Matsugae is fairly simply, and the main draw here are the set course tofu meals, of which you have three to choose from. They all include hot or cold tofu, dipping sauces, appetizers, rice, and a variety of small side dishes. The mid-size course (2,778 yen) is more than enough food and provides great insight into the special cuisine at Matsugae. The medium level course includes tempura, and the highest options adds in some soba noodles.
What makes the tofu here special is that it's not just the plain white jiggly cube that you’re probably familiar with. Slightly tan in appearance, Matsugae's tofu is flavored with soba buckwheat, giving it a rich, nutty taste and a texture that is more sticky than slippery. The unique taste is very noticeable when the tofu is eaten on its own, but when dipped in soy sauce or the excellent sesame dressing provided, it’s not as distinct. Salt and shredded ginger are also provided as toppings. Paired with the soba tofu are green cubes of tofu flavored with matcha tea powder from Uji, the famous tea town just south of Kyoto. The effect is largely visual, as the matcha flavor doesn't really come through at all. Overall, the presentation of the checkered white and green cubes is really pleasing, and there is more than enough tofu to fill even the most hungry guest. It's up to you if you want it served in lightly flavored hot broth, or in a wooden bucket of chilled soy milk. After trying both, and it's hard to say which was better. They're simply different. It just comes down to your seasonal preference; cold tofu in summer is most refreshing; warm tofu is a favorite winter comfort food.
Before the tofu arrives as the main course, diners are treated to a satisfying small appetizer selection. The steamed pumpkin and mushroom is standard and the raw gluten cakes topped with sauce and roasted soba are interesting, but perhaps difficult for a western palate. The cold yuba is by far the most tasty. Yuba is the skin that forms on boiled soy milk, and at Matsugae it's served chilled with a small dollop of wasabi on top. Incredibly refreshing on a warm, humid day in late summer.
Next up is a small dish of grilled eggplant and simmered nishin (Pacific herring) garnished with herb flowers. This sweet and flaky fish is one of my favorite foods in Japan, and it does not disappoint at Matsugae. To be honest, I was not expecting to have nishin served with tofu. The taste is more sweet than fishy and it has a light, flaky texture, so it actually complements a tofu meal surprisingly well.
Tempura and rice with pickles are also served with the main tofu course, ensuring that you won't leave Matsugae hungry. The tempura is really filling - perhaps a bit too much so - and the sizes of the pumpkin slice and the bunch of mushrooms are much larger than what you usually find. The best part is the small bite of fried yuba, a really savory treat that you don’t find as part of tempura assortment very often.
They do their best to work soba into almost everything at Matsugae, so the rice and pickles are unique as well. On top of the rice is a large helping of small dried fish and buckwheat kernels. The taste of the soba comes through beyond the fishy, waxy texture of the little fish and pairs nicely with the pickled daikon radish and seaweed served as a side dish. Even these pickles are covered in soba, and the soft and tart soba kernels are a great way to finish a meal.
Well, almost finish a meal, because dessert arrives shortly after the rice. What you may initially think is a scoop of ice cream turns out to be kudzu mochi, a kind of pudding made from a starchy root and flavored with green tea. Unaccustomed foreign diners may have a hard time with the sticky texture, but the flavor of this rich, thick pudding can be quite enjoyable.
This lunch at Matsugae is noteworthy for the way that it incorporates soba into the dishes, especially the tofu. It's tempting to compare the tofu here to other well-known spots in the city, but this is probably unwise. Matsugae does their own style of Tofu that works well as a part of their special meal, and it stands apart from what you can find elsewhere. This restaurant is perfect for adventurous lovers of tofu who want to try something new in a great setting, although if you don't get a table with that amazing garden view, it'll be up to you to decide if your visit was truly worth it.